In the northwest corner of Yosemite National Park there is a valley that John Muir described as “a wonderfully exact counterpart of the great Yosemite.“ Since Muir’s time, Hetch Hetchy Valley has changed. It was dammed in 1923 and a large blue reservoir now covers the valley. Muir opposed the dam, and fellow conservationists lost a long battle to preserve the valley. There is a continued effort to return the valley to its natural state by removing the dam. Residents of San Francisco and outlying areas use water held in Hetch Hetchy Valley. It is argued today, as it was a century ago, that a dam placed further downstream could deliver the water more efficiently while preserving the beautiful valley. Even in its altered state, Hetch Hetchy Valley is beautiful. The trail around the reservoir provides impressive views of up to three waterfalls. To the powerful Wapama Falls and back is a 5-mile day hike with 200 feet of elevation gain. Beyond, the trail continues deeper into the Yosemite Wilderness and is a great route for backpackers. Hetch Hetchy Valley receives far fewer visitors than its more popular neighbor, and this picturesque mostly level trail is a great way to explore an enjoyable pocket of Yosemite National Park.

Begin by hiking across O’Shaughnessy Dam. Off the dam to the left, water spills into the Touloumne River. To the right lies eight miles of protected waters, the largest body in Yosemite National Park. Boating and swimming is not permitted, reserving the pristine reservoir for hikers. Pass through a tunnel on the far side of the dam and continue along the northwest side of the lake. Cross Tueeulala Falls, which cascades down the granite slope to the left. This falls is less impressive than the one to come, so continue up the trail, gaining minimal elevation to a scenic rise along the lake. From the high point of the hike, there is a superb view up and down the lake including the dynamic summit of Kolana Rock, which rises up from the opposite side of the big blue body.

Looking up Hetch Hetchy Reservoir

Proceed along the gradual rocky trail to wooden footbridges that cross the spillway below Wapama Falls. The waterfall is over one thousand feet tall, separated into segmented drops and cascades. Before the dam was built, Wapama Falls fell hundreds of feet further to the bottom of Hetch Hetchy Valley, but the truncated tumbler is still impressive. Dart across the bridges, enjoying a refreshing mist from the powerful falls. Look for rainbows in the area where the falls meets the lake. The view from the bridge includes mountains, a waterfall, and a lake. What more could you want?

A footbridge beneath Wapama Falls

Energetic hikers may continue another four miles to Rancharia Falls or deeper into the Yosemite Wilderness and neighboring Stanislaus National Forest. Since swimming back is not an option, return the way your came.

To get to the trailhead: From the west entrance of Yosemite National Park, continue another mile outside the park on Route 120 (Big Flats Road). Turn right (east) on Evergreen Road. Drive 7.5 miles on winding miles through forest and farms to Mather. Turn right on to Hetch Hetchy Road – Evergreen Road and continue another 7.5 miles to the parking area for Hetchy Hetchy Reservoir next to the dam.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                             

These photos were taken in July of 2006. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	May Lake This short east hike off Tioga Road visits a peaceful alpine lake in the high elevation region of Yosemite north of Yosemite Valley.
	Mirror Lake This 2 to 2.8-mile hike visits a reflective pool on the east end of Yosemite Valley.
	Lower Yosemite Fall Trail This 1.2-mile hike delivers visitors to the base of the tallest waterfall in North America. The experience is not to be missed.
	The Mist Trail to Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall This 1.8 to 5.5-mile hike takes an exciting course past two of Yosemite’s prize waterfalls.
	Half Dome This epic 16-mile hike climbs 4,800 feet on one of Yosemite’s most popular and most challenging trails.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Yosemite National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Yosemite National Park Campgrounds There are 13 campgrounds with over 1,600 total sites spread throughout the parks to facilitate your visit.

 

More Info

 

May Lake on yosemitehikes.com

May Lake on wikipedia.org

Mount Hoffman on wikipedia.org

Mount Hoffman on summitpost.org

The official website of Yosemite National Park

 

It might be half a dome, but it’s a full day’s hike – 16 miles round trip from Yosemite Valley with 4,800 feet of elevation gain. Is Yosemite’s much heralded bucket-list hike worth all the hoopla? You bet it is. Half Dome is an iconic element of the Yosemite landscape, and the trail to its summit is a one of a kind.

Get a permit. Due to the popularity of the hike up Half Dome, Yosemite National Park has instituted a permit system. Reservations are required seven days a week and there are no first-come first-serve permits available. The 400 daily openings fill up as quickly as the park releases them, demonstrating the popularity of the trail. A permit can be reserved at recreation.gov for $1.50.

Prepare for chains. To climb the dome itself, you’ll ascend 400 feet of exposed granite at a roughly 60-degree angle. A walkway of planks and cable hand railings is used to ascend the steep rock. Bring gloves for a comfortable grip of the braded-fiber steel cables. The chains to the summit are taken down during the winter, so plan your hike between late May and early October (depending on the snow).

The chains on the side of Half Dome

Get ready. Before starting this hike, you will need to train. It is a marathon effort. In the weeks prior to attempting Half Dome, condition yourself with at least a couple 12 to 14 mile hikes with 2,000 or more feet of elevation gain. The hike up Half Dome will be more enjoyable and feasible if your body is conditioned for the effort.

Get set. It will likely take over 12 hours to complete your hike, so aim to start up the trail before 8 AM. Pack plenty of water, sunscreen, and food. Hiking shoes with good traction are a necessity for steep and slippery sections of the trail. It is also a good idea to carry a flashlight.

Go! From Happy Isles Shuttle Stop in Yosemite Valley, turn left and cross the Merced River to the start of the Mist Trail. Turn right and begin the slog. There are views of Yosemite Falls and Illilouette Fall over the first mile to the Vernal Fall Footbridge. Across the bridge, you’ll find bathrooms and a water fountain. Continue along the bank of the river another quarter mile to the junction with John Muir Trail. Straight ahead, the Mist Trail climbs steep steps alongside Vernal Fall, before climbing upriver past Nevada Fall to rejoin Jon Muir Trail on the way to Half Dome. This is the more exciting route, but it is much steeper. The stone steps are narrow, and are tricky to descend as well, especially when you are tired. John Muir Trail is slightly longer, more gradual, and better suited for the long haul. If you are feeling especially ambitious head up the Mist Trail, but it is probably best to explore that trail on a day when you don’t have so far to travel.

Nevada Fall and Liberty Cap from John Muir Trail

Turning right up John Muir Trail, the single track climbs a long series of switchbacks that reward the effort with a direct view of Nevada Fall. The 594-foot tumbler is cradled to the left by Liberty Cap, a bald granite dome in front of Half Dome. Take in the waterfall-filled view from Clark Point and continue across a ledge on the right side of the valley above a sheer depression carved by the Merced River. Cross through pines down to a footbridge just above Nevada Fall. This is a good place to rest and peer over the railing at the observation deck. You’ve climbed 1,900 feet, but somehow, you aren’t even half way. Three miles down. Five to go.

Follow the trail along the left bank of the river, passing a bathroom and the top of the Mist Trail as you cross the pine forest in Little Yosemite Valley. At around mile six, turn left, leaving John Muir Trail for Half Dome. This is near Little Yosemite Valley Trail Camp. Turn north through tall conifers to reach the base of the sub dome below Half Dome. From here (about 8,000 feet), you get a unique side view the daunting dome. Begin up a series of grueling switchbacks in advance of the chains on the dome itself. This is the toughest climb of entire hike. The switchbacks are steep, you are tired, and the rocky slope offers little shade.

Looking northeast from the top of the subdome

When you reach the chains, catch your breath, slip on a pair of gloves, and grab hold. Walk up the center between the two cables, spaced about three feet apart. Put one hand on each of the waist-height cables and pull yourself up. There are wooden planks spaced out every six feet. Transition from plank to plank, pausing at each to let the person coming down the chains pass. If everyone follows the system, you can get to the top efficiently. Given the crowding on this trail, it is often a slow process to reach the top. There are a few extra steep climbs, but most of the ascent is at about 60 degrees, which is more than you would want to do without the chains, but not enough to make you cling to the rock face. Do not attempt to climb the cables in anything but perfect weather. They can become very dangerous in an electric storm or even a light rain.

The flat area at the top of Half Dome is surprisingly vast, about the size of three football fields. The big open space has even bigger views. Green valleys and snowcapped peaks surround this 8.842-foot perch. Your starting point, Yosemite Valley, can be seen almost a mile below. To the west, Yosemite Valley stretches past North Dome, Glacier Point and more epic landscape. Half Dome offers a remarkable view, and if you’ve made the climb, you’ve earned it. Behold the grandeur of El Capitan and the full majesty of Yosemite.

The top of Half Dome

There is a point protruding from the crown of Half Dome (like the imaginary face at the top of a peanut when you split it in half). If you are feeling brave, walk out onto “the diving board,” but be cautious. Visitors have fallen to their death from Half Dome, often by trying to get too close to the edge. Fear not, there is plenty to see from a safe distance.

When you are ready to head down (you have earned the right to linger as long as you like!), make your way back down the chains. You can face out from the rock now, and take in more of the view, but it is helpful to walk backward down the steep sections. Expect the descent to be a bit more challenging than the way up. At the bottom of the chains, return down the switchbacks, through the forest, and down the river past the falls to the trailhead.

Looking down the chains

Pack lots of water. Then pack more water (at least one gallon per person). A filter to drink from the Merced River is helpful. The hike is best done as a one-day marathon, but you may divide the trek over three days by backpacking in five miles to Yosemite Valley Trail Camp, lugging more gear along the way. There are other routes to the top of Half Dome, including taking the Panorama Trail down from Glacier Point past Illilouette Falls, down to John Muir Trail, and up to Half Dome (10 miles one way), or hiking south from Tenaya Lake on Tioga Road through the Yosemite backcountry to Half Dome (11.5 miles one way).

The hike up Half Dome an unforgettable and exhausting achievement. Be careful and enjoy. The hike lasts a full day, but the memories last forever.

To get to the trailhead: Drive into Yosemite Valley and park at Curry Village. Take the free park shuttle for three stops to Happy Isles and walk across the Merced River to reach the start of the Mist Trail. There is also a parking lot between Curry Village and Happy Isles for backpackers, but this will add about a mile of level hiking to your trek.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                                           

These photos were taken in September of 2007 and May of 2011. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	The Mist Trail to Vernal Fall and Nevada Fall This 1.8 to 5.5-mile hike takes an exciting course past two of Yosemite’s prize waterfalls.
	Mirror Lake This 2 to 2.8-mile hike visits a reflective pool on the east end of Yosemite Valley.
	Lower Yosemite Fall Trail This 1.2-mile hike delivers visitors to the base of the tallest waterfall in North America. The experience is not to be missed.
	Bridalveil Fall Trail This easy paved half-mile trail visits the base of a 620-foot single-drop waterfall on the south side of Yosemite Valley.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Yosemite National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Yosemite National Park Campgrounds There are 13 campgrounds with over 1,600 total sites spread throughout the parks to facilitate your visit.

 

More Info

 

The official NPS webpage for the Half Dome day hike

Half Dome on yosemitehikes.com

Half Dome on wikipedia.org

Mist Trail on yosemitehikes.com

The official website of Yosemite National Park

 

This less-traveled single track on the southern end of Yosemite National Park visits thundering cascades and one of the longest falls in the park outside Yosemite Valley. Unlike the challenging waterfall hikes at the heart of the park, the strenuous rating on Chilnualna Falls Trail comes from its length, not its pitch. Beyond a steep section along the cascade at the start of the trail, the single track is steady and surprisingly gradual, gaining 2,200 feet over 4 miles. If an 8-mile round trip hike is more than you are looking for, do not pass up seeing the cascades that parallel the start of the trail. Hike to the top of the stone steps along this daunting stretch of Chilnualna Creek, and then return to the trailhead for a highly enjoyable half-mile hike. The full trail explores a charming forest on the way to Upper Chilnualna Falls where it connects to more trails delving into the Yosemite backcountry.

Beginning from the parking area at the end of Chilnualna Falls Road, walk a short distance east to the trailhead. There is a stock trail angling to the left. Be glad you aren’t a horse, and take the single track toward the sensational string of cascades. In no time at all, you will be standing alongside a raucous chain of pour-overs. The creek absolutely thunder in the spring, when snow melt swells the banks. The trail separates from the creek to reach the upper waterfall, so absorb the cascade, and any mist that hits you, before moving on.

Steps in the trail along the cascade

A switchback of stone steps leads to a reunion with the stock trail. Head to the right and continue up the trail. There are not further junctions until you reach the waterfall.

Through the trees to the left, a view appears over the pine-covered basin containing Wawona. Two-thirds of a mile from the junction, there are logs bridging a seasonal creek crossing. About two tenths of a mile further, the trail comes within eyesight of Chilnualna Creek, running parallel to this frothy channel for another 0.15 miles. Footpaths heading down to the rapids offer a short detour. The main trail moves away from the creek, avoiding it for the rest of the climb to the falls.

After crossing two more seasonal tricklers, march up a flight of stone steps to an area of exposed granite that offers fine views down the canyon carved by Chilnualna Creek. Across the creek is Wawona Dome, a 6,899-foot prominence with steep rock walls that reverberate the sound of the tumbling water.

The trail continues in and out of shade, traveling through a pine forest decorated by ruby-trunked Manzanita trees. Some wildfire damage is evident, but whether you are hiking over dirt, rocks, or a soft bed of pine needles, the environment is seductively sylvan.

Chilnualna Falls Trail

Half a mile past the open granite area, and 2.75 miles from the trailhead, you will start to hear and see Upper Chilnualna Falls. Tall pines around the trail and a rock trench sheltering the waterfall obscure any clear view of the falls. The volume of the waterfall increases as you hike, along with your frustration that an unobstructed view is not available. Each time you near what might be a clean shot of the falls, the teasing trail turns up a switchback away from the creek.

The best view of Chilnualna Falls comes three-quarters of a mile from the top. A sizable seasonable stream pours over the trail from left to right, providing its own waterfall that is undeniably pleasant if not as impressive. This liquid conduit clears the forest below, providing the broadest window of Chilnualna Falls.

Examining the charming waterfall along the trail

Chilnualna Falls dumps off the rim of the canyon and channel north down a jagged trench under the direction of a bold rock that obscures a head-on view. Another quarter mile up the trail, dense trees obscure an almost perfect perspective of the falls. After a few final switchbacks, the trail straightens out and crosses rock steps on an outcropping north of the falls. Even from the top of the Chilnualna Falls, you do not get a full view of the chute because of the way it angles off the cliff. Instead there is a grand panorama of the valley below.

Mist rising up from the top of Chilnualna Falls

Above the falls, the trail switches past smaller cascade, coming to a trail junction that allows backpackers to trek further. Alder Creek, Bishop Creek, Bridalveil Creek, and Westfall Meadow can be reached en route to Glacier Point Road to the north, and Buena Vista Lake, Crescent Lake, Johnson Lake, and Buck Camp can be reached to the east. A wilderness permit is required for all overnight adventures into the Yosemite Backcountry.

For day hikers, take a moment to look over the falls (without getting too close to the edge), and return the way you came. On the way down, you will notice more views of Chilnualna Falls than you saw on the way up (unless you looked over your shoulder a lot). The trail is enjoyable in reverse, as you stride back to the cascade and down to the trailhead.

Chilnualna Falls from the seasonal cascade pouring over the trail

This hike to Chilnualna Falls should be considered moderate for its steepness and strenuous for its length. The trail crosses south facing slopes and is one of the first to be free of snow in the spring. It is a pleasant hike that time of year when the waterfalls are full. The trail passes in and out of shade and can become quite hot in the summer. Carry lots of water and avoid hiking at mid-day. This long gradual trail offers a peaceful escape from the crowds in Yosemite Valley. An entrance fee is required to access Chilnualna Falls Trail in Yosemite National Park. Bathrooms and bear boxes are provided at the trailhead. Be bear safe and have a great hike!

To get to the trailhead: From Highway 41, 28 miles south of Yosemite Valley and 4.8 miles north of the south entrance to Yosemite National Park (just north of Wawona Hotel and Golf Course), head east on Chilnualna Falls Road. Drive two miles, passing Redwoods in Yosemite Lodge to the end of Chilnualna Falls Road. Follow signs for the trailhead parking area, down the hill to the right.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                                           

These photos were taken in May of 2011. Click to enlarge.

 

Video

 

Chilnualna Falls Trail filmed on the GoPro Helmet Hero by Seth Smigelski.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoias This 1.6-mile hike (or longer) visits the biggest trees in Yosemite.
	Taft Point Trail This 4-mile round trip hike visits an overlook on the south wall of Yosemite Valley with fascinating rock fissures carved into the exposed granite.
	Bridalveil Fall Trail This easy paved half-mile trail visits the base of a 620-foot single-drop waterfall on the south side of Yosemite Valley.
	Lower Yosemite Fall Trail This 1.2-mile hike delivers visitors to the base of the tallest waterfall in North America. The experience is not to be missed.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Yosemite National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Similar Trails

 

	Tokopah Falls This gradual 3.4-mile hike visits the base of the tallest waterfall in Sequoia National Park.
	Marble Falls This 8-mile hike takes a flower-lined path up a mountain canyon to a powerful waterfall.

 

Camping

 

Yosemite National Park Campgrounds There are 13 campgrounds with over 1,600 total sites spread throughout the parks to facilitate your visit.

 

More Info

 

Chilnualna Falls Trail on localhikes.com

Chilnualna Falls Trail on world-of-waterfalls.com

Chilnualna Falls Trail on infolab.stanford.edu

The official website of Yosemite National Park

 

Point Mugu State Park protects 15,000 acres of rustic wilderness on the west end of the Santa Monica Mountains between Oxnard and Malibu. More than 70 miles of trails explore this sprawling park, leaving hikers with options. An excellent way to experience Point Mugu State Park is to set out on a daunting and rewarding 11.75-mile loop. Beginning from the mouth of La Jolla Canyon just across Highway One from the Pacific Ocean, the hike ascends the east side of the canyon on Ray Miller Trail, takes Overlook Fire Road inland to La Jolla Valley Fire Road, crosses a mountain valley toward Mugu Peak, then follows an ocean-side mountainside trail back into La Jolla Canyon just in time to pass over a short waterfall on the way back to the trailhead. If that sounds like a lot, it is. This is one heck of a hike!

There is 1,250 feet of elevation difference between the trailhead and Mugu Peak, which provides a remarkable perch over the Pacific. The ocean views along this loop could easily be the very best in the Santa Monica Mountains. The mountains and grasslands inland from the coast also make for pleasant hiking.

From the La Jolla Canyon Day Use Area in Point Mugu State Park, locate Ray Miller Trail, which will be on the right as you look inland from the parking lot. Straight ahead, La Jolla Canyon Trail goes up canyon toward a short seasonal waterfall. This will be the return route for the loop. To start, ascend the east ridge of the canyon on Ray Miller Trail, the western end of the Backbone Trail. The single track winds up the ridge, steadily gaining 1,000 feet of elevation over 2.75 miles to a junction with Overlook Fire Road.

Ray Miller Trail above La Jolla Canyon

Ocean views from Ray Miller Trail

Crashing waves and passing motorcycles serenade the ascent, which is further motivated by expanding views of the canyon and coast. Just over a mile from the start, Ray Miller Trail curves around the south end of the ridge providing its first look down the beach to the east. The trail reaches the ridgeline, 2.25 miles from the start, and turns inland, straddling the ridge between La Jolla Canyon and Big Sycamore Canyon.

The Boney Mountains above Overlook Fire Road

Enjoy luscious ocean and canyon views as you close out Ray Miller Trail and come to a T-junction with Overlook Fire Road. Turn left, taking the wide fire road north through new landscapes. There is a scenic sight to the northeast, across Sycamore Canyon and Serrano Valley toward the Boney Mountains, the highest peaks in the Santa Monica Range, which includes Sandstone Peak. The fan-shaped valley at the top of La Jolla Canyon comes into view to the west, surrounded by a rim of low peaks that curve around the upper lip of the valley. Atop one of the mountains to the west, you will see Point Mugu Radar Station, a hard-to-miss collection of communication satellites that is one of the few human intrusions in sight.

La Jolla Valley from Overlook Fire Road

After ascending to 1,150 feet, the fire road turns to the left and winds down to a four-way intersection, 4.5 miles from the start. Just before the junction, Wood Canyon Vista Trail, also a segment of the Backbone Trail, breaks off to the right heading northeast for two miles to the fire road at the bottom of Sycamore Canyon. At the four-way junction, North Guadalasca Fire Road Trail continues straight, northwest up the ridge, while Wood Canyon Fire Road heads to the right, east into Sycamore Canyon.

To continue on the loop, turn left toward La Jolla Valley and set out across the grasslands. After 0.2 miles, there is a junction on the left with La Jolla Canyon Trail, which descends through the canyon past La Jolla Canyon Falls to the trailhead. This trail can be used to abbreviate the hike to 7.35 miles, but that would omit Mugu Peak, so continue west on La Jolla Valley Fire Road.

There are more side-trails splitting off in both directions. To the right are three short spurs for La Jolla Valley Hike-in Campground. The sites are spaced to offer privacy and may be reserved for $7 per person per night through Point Mugu State Park (805-488-5223). There are bathrooms (porta-potties) for those in need, but no drinking water. Campfires are not allowed.

Just past the campground are two junctions on the left with single tracks heading into La Jolla Canyon. These are fingers of the La Jolla Valley Loop Trail, a shorter circuit through the park. Ignore all of the junctions and stick to La Jolla Valley Fire Road. The double-track road crosses a plank bridge and dwindles to a single-track, cutting west through grasslands that may be either green or golden depending on the season of your hike. You will cross a small riparian zone where Coastal Live Oaks provide welcome shade. Unfortunately, there is Poison Oak underfoot, making this a bad place to break. The trail turns to the left parallel to the trees and comes to the last junction with La Jolla Valley Loop Trail (1.85 miles past the La Jolla Canyon Trail junction and 6.55 miles from the start of the hike).

Looking back across La Jolla Valley toward the Boney Mountains

Stay to the right through this junction and ascend the ridge to a saddle west of Mugu Peak, at an elevation of 910 feet. To the left, a single track heads for the summit. One could shorten this hike to 10.75 miles by heading over the peak here, but that would eliminate the immense ocean views just ahead. The trail below the peak, called Mugu Peak Trail, meets up with the track across the summit on the other side at a higher elevation. It is recommended to hike the full loop and approach the summit from the east for a short scenic ascent.

Straight ahead, Chumash Trail descends the steep south side of the saddle for 0.6 miles to an alternative trailhead along PCH. The most defined trail, Mugu Peak Trail heads southeast across the waist of Mugu Peak. The ocean views are back, and they are stunning along this next portion of the hike. The single track takes a level course to a viewpoint along the eastern slope of the peak, 0.36 miles from the saddle. The landing soars above PCH, and provides a panoramic perspective up and down the coast. Coastal wetlands to the west make a unique sight. Just past Mugu Lagoon is Point Mugu Naval Base where planes and helicopters can be seen taking off and landing.

Mugu Lagoon from the overlook on Mugu Peak Trail

The trail continues around the peak, gradually gaining elevation. One mile from the saddle, (and 8.25 miles from the start of the hike) Mugu Peak Trail comes to a junction with a track heading up the summit of Mugu Peak. This point is 150 feet higher than the other end of the trail over the peak (at the saddle), making for an easier ascent. There is 200 feet of elevation gain over ¼ mile, which is just enough to get your heart pumping en route to the summit.

The trail to the summit of Mugu Peak

A high-flying American flag stands on the top of Mugu Peak. This round 1,266-foot peak is remarkably close to the ocean, and provides unobstructed 360-degree views up and down the coast, and inland over La Jolla Valley. Old glory is well placed.

The flag on the summit of Mugu Peak

Beyond the summit spur, Mugu Peak Trail descends toward the western ridge of La Jolla Canyon (across from Ray Miller Trail). After curving inland and dropping 460 feet over 0.9 miles, the trail crosses a small creek and comes to a junction with La Jolla Valley Loop Trail. The creek is one of two streams that converge above La Jolla Canyon Falls. Though you are getting close, there is still 1 1/3 miles left to hike to the waterfall.

Mugu Peak Trail returns to La Jolla Canyon

Pass a rusted out shed just before the junction, and turn right, joining the single-track La Jolla Valley Loop Trail as it wanders northeast over slopes of sage and brush for 0.83 miles to a junction with La Jolla Canyon Trail. There is some uphill en route to this final junction. Fortunately, once you get there, it is all downhill to the trailhead. Turn right and descend the rocky wall of La Jolla Canyon, which is lined by bizarre looking vegetation, Giant Coreopis. The plant looks like fennel crossed with Joshua tree in a lab run by Dr. Seuss.

La Jolla Canyon Falls

Switchbacks angle through a small grove of Walnut trees to a confluence just above the falls. Have a look down the canyon from the top of the waterfall, then take the switchback to the left to the base of the falls. Pause below the mossy twenty-foot cascade before continuing down the canyon the final 0.75 miles to the trailhead.

There are several “wow” moments along the epic hike where the views are so incredible, they stop you in your tracks. This 11.75-mile hike can be shrunken to 11.1 miles by omitting the ascent to the summit of Mugu Peak and the walk out to the landing below. This grand trek will not disappoint, but if the distance is too great, there are more manageable options:

• Hiking 1.5 miles round trip to La Jolla Canyon Falls
• Hiking 5.5 miles round trip up Ray Miller Trail
• Hiking 7.35 miles up Ray Miller Trail, across Overlook Fire Road, and down La Jolla Canyon Trail
• Hiking 6.5 miles round trip up Mugu Peak Trail to the summit

La Jolla Canyon Loop is largely sun-exposed, so pack plenty of water and sunscreen. No dogs are allowed. An $8 vehicle fee is charged to park at the trailhead. For those willing to hike a bit extra, there is free roadside parking just outside the park along Pacific Coast Highway. No permit is required to day hike the amazing loop, so get out and enjoy!

To get to the trailhead: From Los Angeles, take the 10 Freeway west through Santa Monica and follow PCH northwest for 34 miles through Malibu to Point Mugu State Park. Fifteen miles past the intersection with Kanan Dune Road and 1.5 miles past Sycamore Canyon, turn right into La Jolla Canyon Day Use Area. Proceed into the park to the parking lot on the left.

From Oxnard, head southeast on PCH for ten miles and turn left into La Jolla Canyon Day Use Area.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

Ray Miller Trail
                 

Overlook Fire Road
             

La jolla Valley Fire Road
             

Chumash Trail
         

Mugu Peak Trail
                                               

La jolla Valley Loop Trail
     

La Jolla Valley Canyon Trail
                   

These photos were taken in January of 2011. Click to enlarge.

 

Elevation Profile

 

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Mugu Peak This 6.5-mile hike ascends from the bottom of La Jolla Canyon to the top of a 1,266-foot peak, providing exceptional ocean and canyon views.
	La Jolla Canyon Falls This short hike visits the short seasonal waterfall 3/4 of a mile up La Jolla Canyon.
	Scenic and Overlook Trails Loop This 2.7 to 3.5-mile hike takes in tremendous ocean views above Big Sycamore Canyon in Point Mugu State Park.
	Sandstone Peak This 6.25-mile loop summits the tallest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains.
	The Grotto This 3-mile out and back visits a remote grotto in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

Similar Trails

 

	Hermit Gulch Trail Trans-Catalina Trail Loop This 11.75-mile hike circles the ridges surrounding Avalon and offers offers amazing views of the interiors of Catalina Island and the ocean beyond.
	Corral Canyon This 2.5-mile loop offers ocean and canyon views from a unspoiled section of the Santa Monica Mountains in Malibu.
	Zuma Canyon Narrows – Zuma Ridge Loop This partially off-trail trek crosses the narrow canyon between Zuma Canyon Trail and Edison Road. Hikers may return along the Zuma Ridge Trail to form a challenging 8-mile loop.
	Gaviota Peak This 6.5-mile loop mounts a 2,458-foot summit two miles from the Pacific then descends Trespass Trail to explore the wilds of the Santa Ynez Mountains west of Santa Barbara.

 

More Info

 

La Jolla Canyon Loop in 101 HIKES IN CALIFORNIA by Jerry Schad

La Jolla Canyon in CALIFORNIA’S COASTAL PARKS by John McKinney

Point Mugu State Park on venturacountytrails.org

Ray Miller Trail – Overlook Fire Road – La Jolla Canyon Trail Loop on californiacoastaltrail.info

Ray Miller Trail – Overlook Fire Road – La Jolla Canyon Trail loop on modernhiker.com

La Jolla Valley Loop on localhikes.com

Mugu Peak on summitpost.org

The official website for Point Mugu State Park

 

Mt. Pickering rises to 13,485 feet and offers fine views over the Sierras. While not tall enough to be called a “14er,” this 13er offers great views of two of those exclusive peaks, Mt. Whitney and Mt. Langley, as well as several other high peaks. This remote mountain is located west of the Sierra Crest in the Whitney Region of Sequoia National Park. The backpackers trek to the summit provides stunning scenery and plenty of privacy.

There are a few routes to choose from when ascending Pickering. This report will concentrate on the northeast approach from Sky Blue Lake. Consult the Sierra Nevada hikers’ bible, THE HIGH SIERRA: PEAKS, PASSES, AND TRAILS by R. J. Secor, or summitpost.org for information on other approaches.

Looking up at Mount Pickering

Mount Pickering is a two-mile class two climb from Sky Blue Lake at the top of Miter Basin. The hike to Sky Blue Lake is an amazing 26-mile round trip adventure of its own, starting from Horseshoe Meadow. Most backpackers will make camp somewhere around Lower Soldier Lake and reach Sky Blue Lake and Mount Pickering on day two.

While there is a partial path leading up to Sky Blue Lake, the trail is completely yours to create to the summit. In fact, based on the register, only a handful of hikers reach the top of the mountain each year.

Looking down on Sky Blue Lake

To climb Pickering, follow the creek flowing into the back of Sky Blue Lake up to a depression between Mount Pickering and Mount Newcomb. Circumnavigate one last lake and make your way to the base of the slope beneath Pickering. Select your route and start toward the saddle to the left of the summit. Be careful crossing the loose gravel and lingering slips of snow. Seek out stable rocks and climb a thousand feet to the saddle. There are very few large boulders, making the climb fairly straight forward.

From the saddle, swing around to the south and take in the sight of Mount Langley, Primrose Lake, and Joe Devel Peak. Catch the view, catch your breath, and push on up the final five hundred vertical feet to the summit.

Large boulders toward the top make summiting Pickering more tiring than it would first appear. Boulder your way around the larger rocks and patches of snow. A cairn marks the highest point on the west end of the mountain. Just past the cairn, and down on the next large rock, is the peak register. Enjoying the vast view across the Sierras before returning the way you came.

A view of Mount Whitney from Mount Pickering

As a variation, serious hikers may continue on to the adjacent Joe Devel Peak. Others will be tempted to descend the ridge to the southeast toward Primrose Lake. While this is a shortcut back, think twice. The Primrose Lake approach is called a class 2 in the annals of R. J. Secor (and it may be in late summer when the snow has melted), this path proved to be a tough class three (with a bit of class four mixed in) in July of 2009. After a strong winter, the long snowfield probably took up the easiest terrain. Unless you are a skilled mountain climber, you will be better off descending the way you came.

To get to Mount Pickering: Starting from Horseshoe Meadow, take either Cottonwood Lakes Trail or Cottonwood Pass Trail to Rock Creek at Lower Soldier Lake. Trek up Miter Basin to Sky Blue Lake and carry on from there.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                     

These photos were taken in July of 2009. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Sky Blue Lake This hike extends beyond Lower Soldier Lake up Miter Basin to a deep blue lake surrounded by towering peaks.
	Primrose Lake This sidetrek visits a lake between Miter Basin and Mount Pickering en route to Sky Blue Lake.
	Lower Soldier Lake This 19.2-mile loop crosses Cottonwood Pass and New Army Pass to visit a beautiful lake that is an ideal camping spot for backpackers heading higher and deeper into the sierras.
	Cottonwood Pass This 7-mile round trip trail ascends 1,200 feet to an 11,200-foot pass and a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, with access to Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
	Cottonwood Lakes This scenic trail through a lake-filled basin provides a 10-mile round trip day hike to Long Lake and a 7.5-miles one-way trek to New Army Pass on the border of Sequoia National Park near Mount Langley.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Mount Langley This 22-mile trek travels past Cottonwood Lakes Trail over New Army Pass to a 14,042-foot summit with towering views of the Sierras.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Sequoia National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Horseshoe Meadow Campgrounds This pair of campgrounds offer 40 sites and serve as a great base for the Cottonwood Pass and Cottonwood Lakes trails.

 

More Info

 

Mount Pickering via Sky Blue Lake on Bob Burds Trip Reports

Mount Pickering on summitpost.org

Mount Pickering in THE HIGH SIERRA: PEAKS, PASSES, AND TRAILS by R. J. Secor

A USGS topographical map of the Mount Pickering region

Trail and campground status page for the Mt. Whitney Ranger District of Inyo National Forest

Inyo National Forest bear canister page

The official website for Inyo National Forest

The official website for Sequoia National Park

 

If you are hiking to Sky Blue Lake in the high mountain backcountry of Sequoia National Park, There are nearby lakes worth visiting. Primrose Lake, is located just off the side of Miter Basin and is a scenic destination. To get to Primrose Lake, follow Upper Rock Creek to Miter Basin. Pass the Major General on the right and turn left up the last cirque before the ridge that separates Primrose Lake from Sky Blue Lake at the top of the basin (see the map below for a visual explanation).

Hike up the rocky slope alongside the drainage coming down from Primrose Lake. Foot-long Golden Trout can be spotted flashing their vibrant red scales in the creek. This area is said to have some of the best fishing in the region, and even passersby can appreciate the beauty of California’s state fish.

Primrose Lake

Mount Pickering peaks up over the rocks beyond the lake, crating an alpine backdrop. Getting to the summit this way requires some serious climbing, so it is better to tackle Pickering via the northeast approach from Sky Blue Lake.

The hike to beautiful Primrose Lake is worthwhile without the summit, adding a couple of miles to a hike in Miter Basin. If you have the time and the energy, the lake’s secluded splendor will not disappoint.

Looking down on Primrose Lake

What to know before you go: Permits in the Sierras are stipulated by your point of entry. A trail quota is in force at the Horseshoe Meadow trailhead from the end of June to Mid-September. A permit may be booked in advance for a five-dollar fee or picked up the day of the hike at the ranger station in Lone Pine. To be safe, backpackers must carry a bear canister, which can be rented at the ranger station for five dollars.

To get to the trailhead: From the city of Lone Pine on Route 395, turn west at the traffic light on Whitney Portal Road. After three miles, turn left on Horseshoe Meadow Road. Drive twenty miles up mountain switchbacks to road’s end at Horseshoe Meadow. Cottonwood Pass trailhead is at the east end of the campground. Cottonwood Lakes trailhead is at the end of the paved road to the right. Take either trail to Rock Creek at Lower Soldier Lake. Then trek up Miter Basin, following the directions to Sky Blue Lake.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                       

These photos were taken in July of 2009. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Sky Blue Lake This hike extends beyond Lower Soldier Lake up Miter Basin to a deep blue lake surrounded by towering peaks.
	Mount Pickering This 13,485-foot summit rises above Sky Blue Lake to offer sweeping views of the sierras.
	Lower Soldier Lake This 19.2-mile loop crosses Cottonwood Pass and New Army Pass to visit a beautiful lake that is an ideal camping spot for backpackers heading higher and deeper into the sierras.
	Cottonwood Pass This 7-mile round trip trail ascends 1,200 feet to an 11,200-foot pass and a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, with access to Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
	Cottonwood Lakes This scenic trail through a lake-filled basin provides a 10-mile round trip day hike to Long Lake and a 7.5-miles one-way trek to New Army Pass on the border of Sequoia National Park near Mount Langley.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Mount Langley This 22-mile trek travels past Cottonwood Lakes Trail over New Army Pass to a 14,042-foot summit with towering views of the Sierras.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Sequoia National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Horseshoe Meadow Campgrounds This pair of campgrounds offer 40 sites and serve as a great base for the Cottonwood Pass and Cottonwood Lakes trails.

 

More Info

 

Trail and campground status page for the Mt. Whitney Ranger District of Inyo National Forest

Inyo National Forest bear canister page

The official website for Inyo National Forest

The official website for Sequoia National Park

 

There is a remote and picturesque basin on the west side of Sequoia National Park. At the terminus is a large lake with waters so deep and blue you will think you are staring up at the heavens.

The trek up Miter Basin begins at Rock Creek Meadow, nine miles from the nearest trailhead. Those making the hike typically stay overnight in the area, and nearby Lower Soldier Lake offers great camping for backpackers. From Horseshoe Meadow in the Golden Trout Wilderness, one may get to this backcountry basin via two different trails, crossing into Sequoia over either Cottonwood Pass or New Army Pass to reach Lower Soldier Lake.

Looking down on Rock Creek Lake

Descend east along the Soldier Lake Fork of Rock Creek. The trail drops 500 feet to a good-sized meadow with a lake at the north end, named Rock Creek Lake. At the meadow, hook right and head up the path following Upper Rock Creek. The track is well worn at the start, but becomes segmented further up.

To avoid dropping all the way to the meadow only to hike back uphill again, an alternative is to traverse the rocky forest between the two creeks. Doing so reduces the amount of elevation hikers sacrifice before heading up to Miter Basin.

The path makes its way up the right bank of Upper Rock Creek for some distance and then disappears. Worry not. Continue along the creek until you find a good spot to cross. On the other side, the track reemerges and climbs up the ridge on the north side of the creek.

The path along Rock Creek

The mosquitoes can be quite savage here in July. Pack bug spray and hurry up the trail. Once you leave the forest, the mosquitoes will disappear.

The trail climbs through a narrow stretch and opens on a large almost tree-less basin. The views are wide and breathtaking. To the right, the Major General stands tall at 12,300 feet. Behind it is Mount Langley, the ninth tallest mountain in California. North of Langley a line of sawtooth pinnacles stretches to Mount Le Conte. To the left, Mount Pickering and Joe Devel Peak hide behind three tall finger-like ridges with two elevated lakes in between (just out of sight). Straight ahead, the basin rises to Sky Blue Lake, to the left of a rock named the Miter.

Miter Basin

Continue up the basin following the course of the creek. Use the path when it is available and make your own when it is not. You will come to a last patch of trees where Rock Creek cascades down the mountain. Hike up the rocks alongside the creek until you reach its source, Sky Blue Lake.

Sky Blue Lake

This celestial body of water is large and beautiful. An ice shelf typically prevents travel on the west side of the lake, but there is a worn path along the eastern edge. Cross the creek and take a stroll around the rugged alpine lake.

Hikers who want a higher view may climb to Mount Pickering, or use Crabtree Pass or Arc Pass to reach a number of nearby summits including Mt. Whitney. This hike from Lower Soldier Lake to Sky Blue Lake is roughly 3.5-miles long in one direction. If you would like to see another lake off Miter Basin, consider making a side trip to Primrose Lake.

To return to Lower Soldier Lake without descending all the way to the trail junction in the meadow, hikers may explore a shorter route. Cross the creek at the wide part of the basin, and chart a course for the forest along the ridge between Soldier Lake and Rock Creek. Use the mound at the south end of Lower Soldier Lake as a beacon and cross through the fairly level pine forest. When Lower Solder Lake comes into view, select a good path down. There is a short steep drop between the top of the ridge and the lake. Once down, stroll along the water’s edge and back to camp. This route is about 2.5-miles long from lake to lake.

Sky Blue Lake

What to know before you go: Permits in the sierras are stipulated by your point of entry. A trail quota is in force at the Horseshoe Meadow trailhead from the end of June to Mid-September. A permit may be booked in advance for a five-dollar fee or picked up the day of the hike at the ranger station in Lone Pine. To be safe, backpackers must carry a bear canister, which can be rented at the ranger station for five dollars.

To get to the trailhead: From the city of Lone Pine on Route 395, turn west at the traffic light on Whitney Portal Road. After three miles, turn left on Horseshoe Meadow Road. Drive twenty miles up mountain switchbacks to road’s end at Horseshoe Meadow. The Cottonwood Pass trailhead is at the east end of the campground.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                                 

These photos were taken in July of 2009. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Mount Pickering This 13,485-foot summit rises above Sky Blue Lake to offer sweeping views of the sierras.
	Primrose Lake This sidetrek visits a lake between Miter Basin and Mount Pickering en route to Sky Blue Lake.
	Lower Soldier Lake This 19.2-mile loop crosses Cottonwood Pass and New Army Pass to visit a beautiful lake that is an ideal camping spot for backpackers heading higher and deeper into the sierras.
	Cottonwood Pass This 7-mile round trip trail ascends 1,200 feet to an 11,200-foot pass and a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, with access to Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
	Cottonwood Lakes This scenic trail through a lake-filled basin provides a 10-mile round trip day hike to Long Lake and a 7.5-miles one-way trek to New Army Pass on the border of Sequoia National Park near Mount Langley.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Mount Langley This 22-mile trek travels past Cottonwood Lakes Trail over New Army Pass to a 14,042-foot summit with towering views of the Sierras.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Sequoia National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Horseshoe Meadow Campgrounds This pair of campgrounds offer 40 sites and serve as a great base for the Cottonwood Pass and Cottonwood Lakes trails.

 

More Info

 

Mount Whitney via Sky Blue Lake and New Army Pass on 100peaks.com

Mount Pickering via Sky Blue Lake on Bob Burds Trip Reports

Trail and campground status page for the Mt. Whitney Ranger District of Inyo National Forest

Inyo National Forest bear canister page

The official website for Inyo National Forest

 

New Army Pass lies at the end of Cottonwood Lakes Trail, 7.5 miles from Horseshoe Meadow. The pass provides off-trail ascents to two nearby summits, Mount Langley and Cirque Peak. There is also a trail down the northwest side of the pass venturing into Sequoia National Park with access to countless backcountry destinations including Lower Soldier Lake, Sky Blue Lake, and Mount Pickering.

Lower Soldier Lake is about ten miles from Horseshoe Meadow and makes a great backpacker’s campsite for those trekking through the eastern sierras. Two trails lead to the lake. Cottonwood Pass Trail is the easiest, but Cottonwood Lakes Trail offers more dramatic scenery, and because of its topography, makes a great return route on a loop to the lake.

The trail below New Army Pass

Lower Soldier Lake to New Army Pass: New Army Pass lies 1,400 feet above Lower Soldier Lake, and those who have climbed the pass from the other directions will find the western approach surprisingly gradual. From the junction 0.1 miles west of Lower Soldier Lake, take the Pacific Crest Trail south for half a miles and turn left (east) at the junction with New Army Pass Trail. The single-track is well-marked and parallels a small fork of Rock Creek. The trail weaves along a forest’s edge next to a boulder-filled meadow. It crosses the creek and gradually progresses toward the slope beneath the pass.

There are a few moderate rises in the trail, but for the most part, the switches come at a gentle grade. The views expand as you climbs up the rocky slope toward the snow-lined pass. Take in the daunting perspective of Mount Langley to the north, and the calming sight of the Cottonwood Lakes to the south.

From the pass, it is 7.5 miles back to Horseshoe Meadow across Cottonwood Basin. The trailhead is at 10,040 feet and the pass is at 12,300 so it is just about all downhill from here. Those looking to hike higher than the pass may tackle Mount Langley or Cirque Peak.

Mount Langley above New Army Pass Trail

Segments of the Lower Soldier Lake Loop:

1. Start out on Cottonwood Pass Trail (3.5 miles)
2. Pass Chicken Spring Lake (4.1 miles)
3. Continue past the Siberian Outpost to Lower Soldier Lake (8.8 miles)
   Climb to New Army Pass (11.7 miles)
4. Descend along Cottonwood Lakes Trail (19.2 miles)

To get to the trailhead: From the city of Lone Pine on Route 395, turn west at the traffic light on Whitney Portal Road. After three miles, turn left on Horseshoe Meadow Road. Drive twenty miles up mountain switchbacks to road’s end at Horseshoe Meadow.
Cottonwood Lakes trailhead is at the end of the paved road to the right. If you hike to Lower Soldier Lake as a loop, the two trailheads are half a mile apart and can be connected through the pack station trail or by passing through the campground and hillside that separate the trailheads.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                         

These photos were taken in July of 2009. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Lower Soldier Lake This 19.2-mile loop crosses Cottonwood Pass and New Army Pass to visit a beautiful lake that is an ideal camping spot for backpackers heading higher and deeper into the sierras.
	Sky Blue Lake This hike extends beyond Lower Soldier Lake up Miter Basin to a deep blue lake surrounded by towering peaks.
	Cottonwood Pass This 7-mile round trip trail ascends 1,200 feet to an 11,200-foot pass and a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, with access to Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
	Cottonwood Lakes This scenic trail through a lake-filled basin provides a 10-mile round trip day hike to Long Lake and a 7.5-miles one-way trek to New Army Pass on the border of Sequoia National Park near Mount Langley.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Mount Langley This 22-mile trek travels past Cottonwood Lakes Trail over New Army Pass to a 14,042-foot summit with towering views of the Sierras.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Mount Pickering This 13,485-foot summit rises above Sky Blue Lake to offer sweeping views of the sierras.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Sequoia National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Horseshoe Meadow Campgrounds This pair of campgrounds offer 40 sites and serve as a great base for the Cottonwood Pass and Cottonwood Lakes trails.

 

More Info

 

Lower Soldier Lake in SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK: A COMPLETE HIKER’S GUIDE by Mike White

Horsehoe Meadow to Rocky Basin Lakes in HIKING NORTHERN CALIFORNIA by Ron Adkison

Trail and campground status page for the Mt. Whitney Ranger District of Inyo National Forest

Inyo National Forest bear canister page

The official website for Inyo National Forest

 

Lower Soldier Lake lies at 10,800 feet on the eastern edge of Sequoia National Park. This is a favored place for backpackers to bed down, and for good reason. A host of trails and off-trail targets make this a prime base camp. The nearest trailhead is Horseshoe Meadow in the Golden Trout Wilderness, which offers two routes to Lower Soldier Lake. About half a mile separates the start of the two trails so they can easily be combined to form a loop.

• Cottonwood Pass Trail to the Pacific Crest Trail (8.8 miles one-way)
• Cottonwood Lakes Trail to New Army Pass Trail (10.4 miles one-way)

From Cottonwood Pass: The shorter trail also requires less elevation gain. Leave Horseshoe Meadow and hike 3.5 miles up the 1,200-foot climb to Cottonwood Pass. Turn right at the junction with the Pacific Crest Trail in the direction of Rock Creek. Pass Chicken Spring Lake, and continue northwest along the trail through a rugged alpine forest of Ancient Foxtail Pines. These trees can grow north of two thousand years old, and the golden red trunks are an everlasting source of beauty along the trail.

Big Whitney Meadow

The trail switches up a rocky mound east of Chicken Spring Lake to a scenic spot that overlooks the lake in one direction and Big Whitney Meadow in the other. From here, the Pacific Crest Trail sets a course for Sequoia National Park, wrapping over slopes and around high meadows. The trail rises to a highpoint of 11,440 before descending to Siberian Outpost in Sequoia National Park.

Siberian Outpost

At 3.6 miles from the pass (and 7.1 from the trailhead) turn right at the junction with the Siberian Pass Trail and continue 1.6 miles to the creek that flows from Lower Soldier Lake. Along the way, you will pass through a mostly level forest of Lodgepole and Foxtail Pines, and cross a creek that parallels New Army Pass Trail. Go through this junction. When you come to a “T” at a second creek, make a right and travel a tenth of a mile along the meadow’s edge to reach Lower Soldier Lake.

Lower Soldier Lake

From Cottonwood Lakes: The Cottonwood Lakes – New Army Pass route to Lower Soldier Lake is a mile and a half longer with greater elevation and greater scenery. From Cottonwood Lakes trailhead at Horseshoe Meadow, take the main trail past Long Lake and High Lake to New Army Pass. This 7.5-mile stretch climbs to 12,300 feet (from10,040), before descending off the back of the pass for 2.3 miles down to a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail. Turn right on PCT and hike the last mile to the junction 0.1 miles below Lower Soldier Lake. Turn right again to arrive at the lake.

Lower Soldier Lake

As a loop: Those hiking out to Lower Soldier Lake as a loop may prefer to return via New Army Pass. The climb to the pass is gradual on the Sequoia side. From the pass, returning hikers are treated to seven and a half miles of mostly downhill hiking past beautiful lakes, forests, and meadows.

Camping at the lake: Remember to observe park regulations by tenting at least a hundred feet from the water. Campfires are prohibited. If Lower Soldier Lake seems crowded, there are other sites to camp at around the meadow and further down Rock Creek. A permit is needed for all overnight excursions. Review Cottonwood Pass Trail or Cottonwood Lakes Trail for more information about permits and quotas.

Camping above Lower Soldier Lake

To get to the trailhead: From the city of Lone Pine on Route 395, turn west at the traffic light on Whitney Portal Road. After three miles, turn left on Horseshoe Meadow Road. Drive twenty miles up mountain switchbacks to road’s end at Horseshoe Meadow. Cottonwood Pass trailhead is at the east end of the campground. Cottonwood Lakes trailhead is at the end of the paved road to the right. If you hike to Lower Soldier Lake as a loop, the two trailheads are half a mile apart and can be connected through the pack station trail or by passing through the campground and hillside that separate the trailheads.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                       

These photos were taken in July of 2009. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Lower Soldier Lake to New Army Pass This trail ascends from Lower Soldier Lake to New Army Pass at the top of Cottonwood Lakes Trail.
	Cottonwood Pass This 7-mile round trip trail ascends 1,200 feet to an 11,200-foot pass and a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, with access to Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
	Cottonwood Lakes This scenic trail through a lake-filled basin provides a 10-mile round trip day hike to Long Lake and a 7.5-miles one-way trek to New Army Pass on the border of Sequoia National Park near Mount Langley.
	Sky Blue Lake This hike extends beyond Lower Soldier Lake up Miter Basin to a deep blue lake surrounded by towering peaks.
	Primrose Lake This sidetrek visits a lake between Miter Basin and Mount Pickering en route to Sky Blue Lake.
	Mount Pickering This 13,485-foot summit rises above Sky Blue Lake to offer sweeping views of the sierras.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Mount Langley This 22-mile trek travels past Cottonwood Lakes Trail over New Army Pass to a 14,042-foot summit with towering views of the Sierras.
	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Sequoia National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Horseshoe Meadow Campgrounds This pair of campgrounds offer 40 sites and serve as a great base for the Cottonwood Pass and Cottonwood Lakes trails.

 

More Info

 

Lower Soldier Lake in SEQUOIA NATIONAL PARK: A COMPLETE HIKER’S GUIDE by Mike White

Horsehoe Meadow to Rocky Basin Lakes in HIKING NORTHERN CALIFORNIA by Ron Adkison

Trail and campground status page for the Mt. Whitney Ranger District of Inyo National Forest

Inyo National Forest bear canister page

The official website for Inyo National Forest

 

Cirque Peak can be reached from either Cottonwood Pass Trail or Cottonwood Lakes Trail. The mountain rises between the two, straddling the divide of the Golden Trout and John Muir Wildernesses. The summit boasts an excellent panorama with a good look at Mount Langley to the north, the Cottonwood Lakes to the east, and the sprawling Sierras to the west.

By far the easiest approach to Cirque Peak is from New Army Pass. The pass is 7.5-miles from Cottonwood Lakes Trailhead and at 12,300 feet, the pass is just 600 feet beneath the summit. The toughest part of this route is the series of switchbacks beneath New Army Pass. From there, it is little more than a walk to the top.

Head west from the pass across a trail-less landscape of rock and sand. Follow the ridgeline as it turns south toward the peak. staying west of the crest to avoid the larger rocks. Continue beneath a series of false peaks and save your ascent for true summit. Cirque Peak is about two miles from the pass and will not put up much of a challenge to anyone who has made it this far into the sierras.

Mount Langley and New Army Pass from Cirque Peak

Looking down on Cottonwood Basin

There are two other approaches worth noting:
Hikers can make the ascent from Cirque Lake or Chicken Spring Lake. Both options require about two miles of off-trail trekking and some Class 2 scrambling. These routes meet up at the saddle south of Cirque Peak and take the summit from there.

From Cirque Lake at the end of Old Cottonwood Creek Trail, cross a short but tiresome boulder field to get to the base of the mountain. Look up and choose a path. Loose gravel and rocks can add a little extra effort to the climb to the saddle. Descending this slope is much easier.

Descending the southern side of Cirque Peak

Those who ascend Cirque Peak by hiking Cottonwood Lakes Trail to New Army Pass may wish to return to Horseshoe Meadow by dropping down to Cirque Lake and Old Cottonwood Creek Trail. This is the shortest route between the trailhead and the peak.

Old Cottonwood Creek Trail fizzles out on the hillside north of Cirque Lake, so picking it up is a little tricky. If you descend from Cirque Peak, circle to the north side of the lake. About eighty yards from the east end, turn left and head up the hillside. Once you find the trail, it is easy to follow down to South Fork Lake and out to Horseshoe Meadow.

A topo map of the off trail hike across Cirque Peak

To get to Cirque Peak: Make your way to Horseshoe Meadow and set out on either Cottonwood Pass Trail, Old Cottonwood Creek Trail, or Cottonwood Lakes Trail.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                     

These photos were taken in July of 2009. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Old Cottonwood Creek Trail This 8 to 9-mile day hike follows a secluded trail through mountain meadows to the South Fork Lakes and Cirque Lake.
	Cottonwood Lakes This trail through lake-filled Cottonwood Basin provides a 10-mile round trip day hike to Long Lake and a 7.5-miles one-way trek to New Army Pass a 12,300-foot gateway to the eastern Sierras including nearby Mount Langley.
	Mount Langley This 22-mile trek travels past Cottonwood Lakes Trail over New Army Pass to a 14,042-foot summit with towering views of the Sierras.
	Mount Pickering This 13,485-foot summit west of Mount Langley offers more excellent sierra views.
	Chicken Spring Lake This 8.2-mile round trip hike continues past Cottonwood Pass to an alpine lake that makes a nice day hike destination or a good first camp for backpackers.
	Cottonwood Pass This 7-mile round trip trail ascends 1,200 feet to an 11,200-foot pass and a junction with the Pacific Crest Trail, with access to Golden Trout Wilderness and Sequoia National Park.
	Lower Soldier Lake This 19.2-mile loop crosses Cottonwood Pass and New Army Pass to visit a beautiful lake that is an ideal camping spot for backpackers heading higher and deeper into the sierras.
	More trails in the Sierra Nevada Mountains Explore other destinations in Sequoia National Park and the rest of the range.

 

Camping

 

Horseshoe Meadow Campgrounds This pair of campgrounds offer 40 sites and serve as a great base for the Cottonwood Pass and Cottonwood Lakes trails.

 

More Info

 

Cirque Peak on summitpost.org

Cirque Peak on peakpagger.com

Cirque Peak and Mount Langley on Bob Burd’s Trip Reports

Trail and campground status page for the Mt. Whitney Ranger District of Inyo National Forest

The official website for Inyo National Forest