Next to Will Rogers State Historic Park there is a shady canyon with a shady past. The ruins of Murphy Ranch, a compound built by Nazi sympathizers in the 1930s have been left behind to decay in Rustic Canyon. For adventuresome hikers, there is a trail entering Rustic Canyon from the east side of Will Rogers SHP. Beyond the end of the trail, there is a long unmaintained path up an overgrown canyon to the ruins. Murphy Ranch can be visited as a 4-mile out and back hike with 200 feet of elevation gain, or as a 5-mile loop with 850 feet of elevation gain that circles back to Will Rogers State Historic Park on the Backbone Trail. An alternate route, and the easiest way to the ruins, is to hike to Murphy Ranch from Sullivan Ridge Fire Road on the east side of Rustic Canyon.

Graffiti-covered ruins in Rustic Canyon

The history: Nazi sympathizers Herr Schmidt, Winona and Norman Stephens, and their followers built this self-contained stronghold in the Pacific Palisades in the 1930s. They planted gardens up the walls of the canyon and constructed several facilities like a power building with a massive diesel generator capable of providing all their electricity. Murphy Ranch was designed to serve as a holdout for fans of the Third Reich waiting for America to fall to the Nazis. Instead, the ranch was raided by U.S. authorities and closed in 1941. The abandoned buildings were transformed into an artists’ colony in the 60s and 70s, before being abandoned after the Mandeville Canyon Fire in 1978. Today the grounds of Murphy Ranch are uninhabited, dilapidated, and covered in graffiti.

Before its demise, Murphy Ranch was said to attract dozens of local Nazi sympathizers who performed military drills during weekend gatherings. Winona and Norman Stephens invested $4 million in Murphy Ranch. They had become convinces that when Europe inevitably fell to Germany, America would be reduced to anarchy, and the National Socialist Party would need a self-sustaining stronghold in the mountains outside Los Angeles to survive the fall and plot the American takeover. History proved to be a bit different. Authorities monitoring the ranch raided the facility shortly after the bombs fell on Pearl Harbor, arresting Schmidt and others for espionage. A radio capable of communicating with Germany may have been confiscated as well, but many of the specifics of this blight on Los Angeles history have been lost to time. The Stephens had commissioned famed African-American architect Paul Williams (who designed the homestead now in ruins in Solstice Canyon) to build a four-story mansion within the canyon, but those plans were never executed. Elements of the bizarre retreat that were built have been left to decay by the Los Angeles Department of Parks and Recreation, and are open to the public to explore.

The hike: According to rangers at Will Rogers State Historic Park, the trail through Rustic Canyon is unmaintained “because it’s unmaintainable.” Indeed this is not your usual canyon trail. There are muddy stretches, steep stretches, and hard to follow stretches. The path crisscrosses a creek up a canyon that is very narrow in places. The flow of the creek fluctuates and can deliver its fair share of wet feet. By starting at the bottom of the canyon and hiking up, you reduce the chance of becoming overwhelmed by the water level or getting lost in the canyon. Be prepared for a slow-going adventure and remember that your safety is your responsibility.

Rustic Canyon

Find Rustic Canyon Trail entering Topanga State Park from the east side of the Will Rogers Polo Field. Hike a third of a mile down a maintained dirt single track dropping into the canyon. When you hit the creek turn left and head up the canyon. The nice trail disappears, leaving you to pick your way up the canyon. A footpath flip-flops across the creek up the narrow canyon through a jungle of vegetation. This is a wild canyon without much of a conduit for hikers. After half a mile you will reach a check dam built across the creek where an artificial waterfall flows. Take the steep track up the dirt slope to the right and continue upstream. It is another mile of bush washing and creek crossing to reach the ruins of Murphy Ranch. When you get close the main ruins, the trail crosses a wooden stable being overgrown by the forest. Stay on the right side of the creek and continue up a faint single track that breaks out of the trees onto a dirt road.

Eureka! Turn left and walk less than a quarter mile to the crumbling ruins of Murphy Ranch, cloaked by live oaks and sycamores. The first building you reach is covered in spray paint and once held the diesel generator and fuel tank that powered the ranch. Step inside the large concrete power building, which has been hollowed of its machinery for a haunting experience.

Looking inside the old power building

Around the power building there are raised gardens, and other foundations. The ruins include long cement staircases that climb all the way up the east side of the canyon to Sullivan Ridge Fire Road. These steps offer another way to visit the ruins, a 3.85-mile hike with 325 feet of elevation gain that does not require you to traipse through an arduous unmaintained canyon.

A few hundred feet north of the power building, the road passes a collapsed structure that served as the troop’s machine shed and garage. This is the last major building from the ranch, and the turnaround point for the out and back hike up Rustic Canyon.

To continue the loop, find a path heading further up the canyon on the right side of the creek above the machine shed. The trail leads you past a large white spooky barn to a junction on the left, a third of a mile above the ruins. Straight ahead the trail continues toward Camp Josepho, a boy scout camp that is closed to hikers. Turn left, following the sign for the Backbone Trail.

A barn in the woods above the main ruins

Cross the creek and begin up an ivy-covered forest on the west side of the canyon. The trail climbs a slope of chaparral, tackling 625 feet of elevation in 3/4 of a mile. The trail is steep and rutted toward the top. If the path through the bottom of Rustic Canyon was not so difficult to follow heading downhill, it would be advisable to hike the loop in reverse in order to go down this steep section instead of up. Pause to admire the view over Rustic Canyon as you soldier to the top.

Looking down the Backbone Trail

Turn left on the Backbone Trail and hike a short distance south to a panoramic summit to reap the rewards of your effort. The view looks southwest toward Santa Monica Bay and east across the city toward downtown Los Angeles. Continue down the Backbone Trail, crossing a white wooden bridge that straddles a saddle just below the summit. Hike another 0.9 miles down the Backbone Trail to reenter Will Rogers State Historic Park at a junction with Inspiration Point Loop Trail.

Continue straight (don’t turn left at the junction next to the large park map) to come to a split with the spur trail to Inspiration Point. If you haven’t been inspired yet, turn left and hike another tenth of a mile up to this easy overlook. There is a grand cityscape to the southeast in front of downtown Los Angeles. To the southwest, the ocean curls around Santa Monica Bay, and to the north, the Santa Monica Mountains are capped by the 2,126-foot Temescal Peak.

The bottom of the Backbone Trail from Inspiration Point

Return to the junction and continue hiking southwest. After a third of a mile, you will come to a junction with a single track on the left. This shortcut heads south and reconnects with the trail below, trimming about 0.2 miles off the distance. Inspiration Point Loop Trail continues to the southwest for a bigger view of the Pacific. The trail bends left and descends east toward the polo fields and the ranch. Follow this trail all the way down to a large lawn east of Will Rogers House. Turn right down the grass to return to the parking area where you started. The lawn is an excellent place to have a picnic or play a game of catch if you still have energy.

Dogs and bikes are not permitted on this hike. The entrance fee for Will Rogers State Historic Park is $12 (as of January, 2012), but no permit is required to hike to Rustic Canyon, so get out and enjoy.

To get to the trailhead: Take Sunset Boulevard to Will Rogers State Park Road, located 4.5 miles west of the 405 and three miles east of PCH. At the light, turn north on Will Rogers State Park Road. Drive 3/4 of a mile up the mountainside to the park entrance. Go through the gate and drive straight past the Will Rogers House to the end of the lot above the polo field. Park and walk to the east side of the field to find the trail.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                                       

These photos were taken in August of 2010, July of 2011, and January of 2012. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Murphy Ranch from Sullivan Ridge This 3.85-mile loop descending from Sullivan Ridge Fire Road into Rustic Canyon, east of Will Rogers State Park, where hikers can visit abandoned buildings once occupied by Nazi sympathizers.
	Sullivan Ridge A prominent lone-standing Live Oak along Sullivan Ridge makes a natural turnaround point and a 7.5 to 8.3 mile round trip hike.
	Inspiration Point This easy 2.25-mile loop in Will Rogers State Historic Park leads to an overlook with views from Santa Monica Bay to downtown LA.
	Rivas Canyon This 2.1-mile (one way) trail crosses a lush secluded canyon connecting Temescal Gateway Park to Will Rogers State Park.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

More Info

 

Rustic Canyon Loop in AFOOT & AFIELD LOS ANGELES by Jerry Schad

A brochure for Will Rogers State Historic Park including a map of the trails.

An LA Times article on the ruins in Rustic Canyon

A second LA Times article on the ruins in Rustic Canyon

A third LA Times article on the ruins in Rustic Canyon

The official website for Topanga State Park

The official website for Will Rogers State Historic Park

 

Point Mugu State Park protects 15,000 acres of rustic wilderness on the west end of the Santa Monica Mountains between Oxnard and Malibu. More than 70 miles of trails explore this sprawling park, leaving hikers with options. An excellent way to experience Point Mugu State Park is to set out on a daunting and rewarding 11.75-mile loop. Beginning from the mouth of La Jolla Canyon just across Highway One from the Pacific Ocean, the hike ascends the east side of the canyon on Ray Miller Trail, takes Overlook Fire Road inland to La Jolla Valley Fire Road, crosses a mountain valley toward Mugu Peak, then follows an ocean-side mountainside trail back into La Jolla Canyon just in time to pass over a short waterfall on the way back to the trailhead. If that sounds like a lot, it is. This is one heck of a hike!

There is 1,250 feet of elevation difference between the trailhead and Mugu Peak, which provides a remarkable perch over the Pacific. The ocean views along this loop could easily be the very best in the Santa Monica Mountains. The mountains and grasslands inland from the coast also make for pleasant hiking.

From the La Jolla Canyon Day Use Area in Point Mugu State Park, locate Ray Miller Trail, which will be on the right as you look inland from the parking lot. Straight ahead, La Jolla Canyon Trail goes up canyon toward a short seasonal waterfall. This will be the return route for the loop. To start, ascend the east ridge of the canyon on Ray Miller Trail, the western end of the Backbone Trail. The single track winds up the ridge, steadily gaining 1,000 feet of elevation over 2.75 miles to a junction with Overlook Fire Road.

Ray Miller Trail above La Jolla Canyon

Ocean views from Ray Miller Trail

Crashing waves and passing motorcycles serenade the ascent, which is further motivated by expanding views of the canyon and coast. Just over a mile from the start, Ray Miller Trail curves around the south end of the ridge providing its first look down the beach to the east. The trail reaches the ridgeline, 2.25 miles from the start, and turns inland, straddling the ridge between La Jolla Canyon and Big Sycamore Canyon.

The Boney Mountains above Overlook Fire Road

Enjoy luscious ocean and canyon views as you close out Ray Miller Trail and come to a T-junction with Overlook Fire Road. Turn left, taking the wide fire road north through new landscapes. There is a scenic sight to the northeast, across Sycamore Canyon and Serrano Valley toward the Boney Mountains, the highest peaks in the Santa Monica Range, which includes Sandstone Peak. The fan-shaped valley at the top of La Jolla Canyon comes into view to the west, surrounded by a rim of low peaks that curve around the upper lip of the valley. Atop one of the mountains to the west, you will see Point Mugu Radar Station, a hard-to-miss collection of communication satellites that is one of the few human intrusions in sight.

La Jolla Valley from Overlook Fire Road

After ascending to 1,150 feet, the fire road turns to the left and winds down to a four-way intersection, 4.5 miles from the start. Just before the junction, Wood Canyon Vista Trail, also a segment of the Backbone Trail, breaks off to the right heading northeast for two miles to the fire road at the bottom of Sycamore Canyon. At the four-way junction, North Guadalasca Fire Road Trail continues straight, northwest up the ridge, while Wood Canyon Fire Road heads to the right, east into Sycamore Canyon.

To continue on the loop, turn left toward La Jolla Valley and set out across the grasslands. After 0.2 miles, there is a junction on the left with La Jolla Canyon Trail, which descends through the canyon past La Jolla Canyon Falls to the trailhead. This trail can be used to abbreviate the hike to 7.35 miles, but that would omit Mugu Peak, so continue west on La Jolla Valley Fire Road.

There are more side-trails splitting off in both directions. To the right are three short spurs for La Jolla Valley Hike-in Campground. The sites are spaced to offer privacy and may be reserved for $7 per person per night through Point Mugu State Park (805-488-5223). There are bathrooms (porta-potties) for those in need, but no drinking water. Campfires are not allowed.

Just past the campground are two junctions on the left with single tracks heading into La Jolla Canyon. These are fingers of the La Jolla Valley Loop Trail, a shorter circuit through the park. Ignore all of the junctions and stick to La Jolla Valley Fire Road. The double-track road crosses a plank bridge and dwindles to a single-track, cutting west through grasslands that may be either green or golden depending on the season of your hike. You will cross a small riparian zone where Coastal Live Oaks provide welcome shade. Unfortunately, there is Poison Oak underfoot, making this a bad place to break. The trail turns to the left parallel to the trees and comes to the last junction with La Jolla Valley Loop Trail (1.85 miles past the La Jolla Canyon Trail junction and 6.55 miles from the start of the hike).

Looking back across La Jolla Valley toward the Boney Mountains

Stay to the right through this junction and ascend the ridge to a saddle west of Mugu Peak, at an elevation of 910 feet. To the left, a single track heads for the summit. One could shorten this hike to 10.75 miles by heading over the peak here, but that would eliminate the immense ocean views just ahead. The trail below the peak, called Mugu Peak Trail, meets up with the track across the summit on the other side at a higher elevation. It is recommended to hike the full loop and approach the summit from the east for a short scenic ascent.

Straight ahead, Chumash Trail descends the steep south side of the saddle for 0.6 miles to an alternative trailhead along PCH. The most defined trail, Mugu Peak Trail heads southeast across the waist of Mugu Peak. The ocean views are back, and they are stunning along this next portion of the hike. The single track takes a level course to a viewpoint along the eastern slope of the peak, 0.36 miles from the saddle. The landing soars above PCH, and provides a panoramic perspective up and down the coast. Coastal wetlands to the west make a unique sight. Just past Mugu Lagoon is Point Mugu Naval Base where planes and helicopters can be seen taking off and landing.

Mugu Lagoon from the overlook on Mugu Peak Trail

The trail continues around the peak, gradually gaining elevation. One mile from the saddle, (and 8.25 miles from the start of the hike) Mugu Peak Trail comes to a junction with a track heading up the summit of Mugu Peak. This point is 150 feet higher than the other end of the trail over the peak (at the saddle), making for an easier ascent. There is 200 feet of elevation gain over ¼ mile, which is just enough to get your heart pumping en route to the summit.

The trail to the summit of Mugu Peak

A high-flying American flag stands on the top of Mugu Peak. This round 1,266-foot peak is remarkably close to the ocean, and provides unobstructed 360-degree views up and down the coast, and inland over La Jolla Valley. Old glory is well placed.

The flag on the summit of Mugu Peak

Beyond the summit spur, Mugu Peak Trail descends toward the western ridge of La Jolla Canyon (across from Ray Miller Trail). After curving inland and dropping 460 feet over 0.9 miles, the trail crosses a small creek and comes to a junction with La Jolla Valley Loop Trail. The creek is one of two streams that converge above La Jolla Canyon Falls. Though you are getting close, there is still 1 1/3 miles left to hike to the waterfall.

Mugu Peak Trail returns to La Jolla Canyon

Pass a rusted out shed just before the junction, and turn right, joining the single-track La Jolla Valley Loop Trail as it wanders northeast over slopes of sage and brush for 0.83 miles to a junction with La Jolla Canyon Trail. There is some uphill en route to this final junction. Fortunately, once you get there, it is all downhill to the trailhead. Turn right and descend the rocky wall of La Jolla Canyon, which is lined by bizarre looking vegetation, Giant Coreopis. The plant looks like fennel crossed with Joshua tree in a lab run by Dr. Seuss.

La Jolla Canyon Falls

Switchbacks angle through a small grove of Walnut trees to a confluence just above the falls. Have a look down the canyon from the top of the waterfall, then take the switchback to the left to the base of the falls. Pause below the mossy twenty-foot cascade before continuing down the canyon the final 0.75 miles to the trailhead.

There are several “wow” moments along the epic hike where the views are so incredible, they stop you in your tracks. This 11.75-mile hike can be shrunken to 11.1 miles by omitting the ascent to the summit of Mugu Peak and the walk out to the landing below. This grand trek will not disappoint, but if the distance is too great, there are more manageable options:

• Hiking 1.5 miles round trip to La Jolla Canyon Falls
• Hiking 5.5 miles round trip up Ray Miller Trail
• Hiking 7.35 miles up Ray Miller Trail, across Overlook Fire Road, and down La Jolla Canyon Trail
• Hiking 6.5 miles round trip up Mugu Peak Trail to the summit

La Jolla Canyon Loop is largely sun-exposed, so pack plenty of water and sunscreen. No dogs are allowed. An $8 vehicle fee is charged to park at the trailhead. For those willing to hike a bit extra, there is free roadside parking just outside the park along Pacific Coast Highway. No permit is required to day hike the amazing loop, so get out and enjoy!

To get to the trailhead: From Los Angeles, take the 10 Freeway west through Santa Monica and follow PCH northwest for 34 miles through Malibu to Point Mugu State Park. Fifteen miles past the intersection with Kanan Dune Road and 1.5 miles past Sycamore Canyon, turn right into La Jolla Canyon Day Use Area. Proceed into the park to the parking lot on the left.

From Oxnard, head southeast on PCH for ten miles and turn left into La Jolla Canyon Day Use Area.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

Ray Miller Trail
                 

Overlook Fire Road
             

La jolla Valley Fire Road
             

Chumash Trail
         

Mugu Peak Trail
                                               

La jolla Valley Loop Trail
     

La Jolla Valley Canyon Trail
                   

These photos were taken in January of 2011. Click to enlarge.

 

Elevation Profile

 

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Mugu Peak This 6.5-mile hike ascends from the bottom of La Jolla Canyon to the top of a 1,266-foot peak, providing exceptional ocean and canyon views.
	La Jolla Canyon Falls This short hike visits the short seasonal waterfall 3/4 of a mile up La Jolla Canyon.
	Scenic and Overlook Trails Loop This 2.7 to 3.5-mile hike takes in tremendous ocean views above Big Sycamore Canyon in Point Mugu State Park.
	Sandstone Peak This 6.25-mile loop summits the tallest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains.
	The Grotto This 3-mile out and back visits a remote grotto in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

Similar Trails

 

	Hermit Gulch Trail Trans-Catalina Trail Loop This 11.75-mile hike circles the ridges surrounding Avalon and offers offers amazing views of the interiors of Catalina Island and the ocean beyond.
	Corral Canyon This 2.5-mile loop offers ocean and canyon views from a unspoiled section of the Santa Monica Mountains in Malibu.
	Zuma Canyon Narrows – Zuma Ridge Loop This partially off-trail trek crosses the narrow canyon between Zuma Canyon Trail and Edison Road. Hikers may return along the Zuma Ridge Trail to form a challenging 8-mile loop.
	Gaviota Peak This 6.5-mile loop mounts a 2,458-foot summit two miles from the Pacific then descends Trespass Trail to explore the wilds of the Santa Ynez Mountains west of Santa Barbara.

 

More Info

 

La Jolla Canyon Loop in 101 HIKES IN CALIFORNIA by Jerry Schad

La Jolla Canyon in CALIFORNIA’S COASTAL PARKS by John McKinney

Point Mugu State Park on venturacountytrails.org

Ray Miller Trail – Overlook Fire Road – La Jolla Canyon Trail Loop on californiacoastaltrail.info

Ray Miller Trail – Overlook Fire Road – La Jolla Canyon Trail loop on modernhiker.com

La Jolla Valley Loop on localhikes.com

Mugu Peak on summitpost.org

The official website for Point Mugu State Park

 

Between Corral Canyon Road and Castro Crest, the Backbone Trail passes though a remote segment of the Santa Monica Mountains know as Upper Solstice Canyon. While it is possible to feel quite removed at the bottom of this trail, the high ridges on both ends provide such sweeping views as to immediately restore your sense of place. From Corral Canyon Road to Castro Crest is 5.5 miles round trip with 525 feet of elevation between the low and high points of the trail. Beyond Castro Crest, one can trek another half mile up Newton Road toward the top of Castro Peak, or continue along the Backbone Trail toward Latigo Canyon Road and beyond.

There are trails going in a few directions at the top of Corral Canyon Road, making it a popular starting point for mountain bikers. Park at road’s end and locate the sign for the Backbone Trail to the left. Lace up and start hiking west.

At the start, the Backbone Trail is wide enough for an ATV, but shrinks to a more standard single-track further into the canyon. Strung out switchbacks lead to an unmarked intersection with a wide fire road, 0.6 miles from the start. To the right, the road ascends to Castro Mountainway, a fire road that connects to the top of Corral Canyon Road. To continue on the Backbone Trail, head straight through the intersection and pick up the trail on the other side. There are no further junctions between here and Castro Crest.

Looking down the trail toward Castro Crest

Looking down into Upper Solstice Canyon

Descend the chaparral-covered slopes toward a narrow section of the canyon. After 1.3 miles, you will reach the canyon floor at an elevation of 1,725 feet. The trail turns northwest toward Castro Crest, crossing several small (and usually dry) creeks as it travels through an enchanting forest at the bottom of the canyon. Even as Upper Solstice Canyon widens, the dense woods feel surprisingly isolating.

The Backbone Trail through the forest at the bottom of Solstice Canyon

Half a mile before Castro Crest, and 2.25 miles from the start, the Backbone Trail begins to climb out of the canyon, switching up the western slope. The trees give way to broader views of Upper Solstice Canyon, offering an exceptional perspective over the world you’ve been hiking through. After ascending 525 feet from the canyon bottom, the trail reaches the saddle named Castro Crest.

Looking down on Upper Solstice Canyon from Castro Crest

Castro Crest provides partial ocean views beyond the mountains to the south, and there is a postcard perspective to the west of the highest peaks in the range. The Backbone Trail drops down the other side of the crest, continuing another 1.4 miles to Latigo Canyon Road. As an alternative, hikers may park along Latigo Canyon Road and venture to Castro Crest from that trailhead, for a shorter less-rustic experience that is still quite enjoyable. (Read the Latigo Canyon Road to Castro Crest trail report for more details.)

In an ideal world, one would hike from Castro Crest up Newton Road to Castro Peak and take Castro Mountainway back to Corral Canyon Road. This fantastic loop was a reality for decades until recent private ownership closed the peak to through traffic including hikers. Newton Road is currently only hike-able for another half mile. The road climbs 230 feet to broader views of the Santa Monica Mountains, and is worth the extra effort.

The gate on Newton Road

Turn right and march up Newton Road to the hike-halting security gate. You are unlikely to see a higher concentration of uniquely phrased “no trespassing” signs anywhere else on the planet. Clearly hikers are not welcome on the other side of this fence, and it is a shame. Castro Peak is the fifth highest summit in the Santa Monica Mountains at 2,824 feet, but you can only hike to 2,480 feet. No Santa Monica Mountain to the east is any taller than Castro Peak, so on a clear day the view in that direction is nearly ceaseless.

Looking east toward Corral Canyon Road

Because the gate is so imposing, you have no choice but to turn around and head back the way you came. The owners of Castro Peak should really work out a system where hikers are allowed to access the peak a couple days out of the month, the way Azusa Rock Quarry provides access to Fish Canyon in the San Gabriel Mountains. With any luck, hikers will someday again have the option to hike the scenic loop over Castro Peak.

Looking south from Castro Motorway

From Corral Canyon Road to the gate above Castro Crest is 6.5 mile out and back with 750 feet of elevation between the top and bottom of the trail. Without a true summit, or waterfall, or other landmark attraction, Upper Solstice Canyon quietly provides a very appealing hikes, and may be one of the more secluded trails in the Santa Monica Mountains.

To get to the trailhead: Take PCH to Malibu and turn inland on Coral Canyon Road (west of Malibu Canyon Road and Pepperdine University at the intersection with the 76 gas station). Drive past the entrance to Solstice Canyon and continue another 5.2 miles up Corral Canyon Road to road’s end. Park along the right side of the road and find the trailhead on the left.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                   

These photos were taken in October and November of 2010. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Castro Crest from Latigo Canyon Road This 3.8-mile hike crosses a green canyon and Climbs to scenic saddle below Castro Peak.
	Solstice Canyon This two-mile out and back is easy and level, and visits the ruins of a burned down ranch and a small waterfall.
	Corral Canyon This 2.5-mile loop offers ocean and canyon views from a unspoiled section of the Santa Monica Mountains in Malibu.
	Escondido Falls This 4-mile out and back visits a 200 foot waterfall that is split into two tiers. The upper tier is 150 feet tall and stunning after a rainstorm.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

More Info

 

Upper Solstice Canyon in AFOOT & AFIELD LOS ANGELES COUNTY by Jerry schad

Upper Solstice Canyon on localhikes.com

Upper Solstice Canyon on lamountains.com

The Backbone Trail on nps.org

 

Castro Crest is located 1.4 miles from Latigo Canyon Road up a pleasant section of the Backbone Trail. The crest offers excellent views over Malibu’s Santa Monica Mountains, with the option to continue another half-mile up Castro Peak. The summit may not be reached however, as it is privately owned and extremely closed to the public. Another popular extension is to continue on the Backbone Trail for another 2.75 miles across Upper Solstice Canyon to Corral Canyon Fire Road. The section of the Backbone Trail between Latigo Canyon and Castro Crest crosses a lush canyon and climbs to panoramic views over the range. The hike to the gate near the top of Castro Peak is 3.8 miles out and back with 650 feet of elevation between the low and high points of the trail.

Looking up at Castro Peak and Castro Crest from the trailhead on Latigo Canyon Road

From the pullout along Latigo Canyon Road, the Backbone Trail heads northeast beginning at an elevation of 2,000 feet. The dirt single-track is level at the start, but quickly reaches the side of a green canyon and begins to descend. Across the way, Castro Peak is visible, the highest point in sight, identifiable by its radio-towered summit. There are no junctions to worry about until you reach Castro Crest, so relax and enjoy the hike.

The Backbone Trail switches down to a pleasant shaded glen at the bottom of the canyon. After descending 170 feet over the first 0.45 miles, things begin to head in the other direction. Cross the small seasonal creek and follow the trail to the left as it begins to climb. The single track passes over a rise in the terrain that offers nice midway views before climbing to the junction at Castro Crest, 0.95 miles and 420 feet from the bottom of the canyon.

Hiking the Backbone Trail below Castro Crest

Castro Crest

A partial ocean view can be enjoyed beyond the mountains to the south, and there is a postcard perspective to the west of the highest peaks in the range. Indeed, the views from Castro Crest are quite panoramic, certainly panoramic enough to inspire you to hike the last half mile up Newton Road. Turn left and march up the wide dirt road as it winds further up the mountainside, adding another 230 feet of elevation before coming to an intense security gate. You are unlikely to see a higher concentration of uniquely phrased “no trespassing” signs anywhere else on the planet. Clearly hikers are not welcome on the other side of this fence, and it is a shame. Castro Peak is the fifth highest summit in the Santa Monica Mountains at 2,824 feet, but you can only hike to 2,480 feet.

The gate on Newton Road

Even from the anticlimactic stopping point in front of the almost comically forbidding gate, the views are sweeping. No Santa Monica Mountain to the east is any taller than Castro Peak, so on a clear day the view in that direction is nearly ceaseless.

Looking down on Castro Crest

Once you’ve taken it in, hike back to Castro Crest and make a right on the Backbone Trail to return the way you came. It is downhill most of the way back. However, after crossing the bottom of the canyon, you will have the climb 170 gradual feet to the trailhead. No fee or permit is required, so get out and enjoy.

To get to the trailhead: From PCH in Malibu, drive 7.3 miles inland on Latigo Canyon Road. After passing Upper Ramirez Mountainway, turn right into the dirt pullout at the trailhead. The parking area is unmarked, so watch your odometer. From the 101 Freeway in Lost Hills, take Kanan Dune Road south for 6.8 mile. Turn left, heading east on Latigo Canyon Road and drive three miles to the trailhead.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                   

These photos were taken in October of 2010. Click to enlarge.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Upper Solstice Canyon This 5.5 to 6.5-mile hike travels the Backbone Trail across Upper Solstice Canyon from Corral Canyon Road to Castro Crest, with the option to hike an extra half mile up Newton Road toward Castro Peak.
	Solstice Canyon This two-mile out and back is easy and level, and visits the ruins of a burned down ranch and a small waterfall.
	Corral Canyon This 2.5-mile loop offers ocean and canyon views from a unspoiled section of the Santa Monica Mountains in Malibu.
	Escondido Falls This 4-mile out and back visits a 200 foot waterfall that is split into two tiers. The upper tier is 150 feet tall and stunning after a rainstorm.
	Paramount Ranch This segment of the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area includes Western Town, an outdoor set cast as frontier towns in TV and film since the 1950s. There are also several miles of hiking trails to explore.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

More Info

 

Latigo Canyon Road to Castro Crest on localhikes.com

The Backbone Trail on nps.org

 

At a saddle in the Santa Monica Mountains 2,340 feet above the Pacific Ocean and three miles from the coast, the Backbone Trail crosses Stunt Road, creating a high trailhead for nearby destinations like Saddle Peak. The 2-mile round trip hike to the summit climbs just 450 feet but offers fantastic views of Malibu and the Santa Monica Mountains.

A spring bloom of Gazanias line the bottom of the trail

Pick up the Backbone Trail, starting west up the center of the V formed by the intersection of Stunt Road and Schueren Road. After a short distance, the trail crosses a section of pavement to the left of a large municipal water tank. Beyond, the trail becomes a single track, which gradually ascends the east side of Saddle Peak. Just 0.7 miles from the start, turn left at the junction with a trail heading to the summit. Straight ahead the Backbone Trail continues down to Piuma Road (and further to Malibu Canyon Road). Hikers can take this section of the Backbone Trail to reach Saddle Peak from Stunt High Trail.

Looking back down the Backbone Trail toward Topanga Mountain

A short distance from the junction, make another left, heading up to the 2,805-foot summit. Straight ahead is a lower overlook that faces south and also offers great views of Malibu. Saddle Peak is the sixth tallest point in the range. From here, one has an excellent view east toward Santa Monica Bay. Enjoy the panoramic views before returning the way your came. No fee or permit is required, so get out enjoy!

Looking southwest from the lower lookout

To get to the trailhead: From PCH, turn inland on Las Flores Road (across from Duke’s restaurant). Drive 3.4 miles up this narrow twisting canyon and turn right onto Rambla Pacifico Street. After 0.6 miles, make a sharp right onto Schueren Rd. and take that for 1.8 miles to the intersection with Stunt Road. Turn left and park along the side of the road. The trailhead for Topanga Lookout is across from the trailhead for Saddle Peak so there will be likely be a few vehicles parked here.

From the 101 Freeway, exit Las Virgenes Road and head south toward Malibu. After 2.8 miles turn left (east) on Mulholland Highway. Turn right on Stunt Road after 4 miles, and drive another 4 miles to the top of the road at the intersection with Schueren Road.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                         

These photos were taken in March of 2010. Click to enlarge.

 

Video

 

Saddle Peak Panorama from Seth Smigelski on Vimeo.

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Topanga Lookout This 2-mile visits the site of an old fire tower that still offers great views of the surrounding mountains.
	Stunt High Trail to Saddle Peak This 8.2-mile hike combines Stunt High Trail and a section of the Backbone Trail to visit the 6th tallest summit in the Santa Monica Mountains.
	Calabasas Peak This 3.6-mile hike travels an easy-to-follow fire road, climbing 1000 feet to panoramic views of the Santa Monica Mountains and San Fernando Valley.
	Red Rock Canyon The trails in the beautifully sculpted Red Rock Canyon are 2.5 and 5.2 miles in length.
	Hondo Canyon This fairly well maintained section of the Backbone Trail crosses fields of grains and forests of Bays, climbing 1500 feet over 3.8 miles.
	Tuna Canyon Park This 1.6 to 5.1-mile hike offers spectacular ocean views from a less-visited park between Topanga and Malibu.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

Similar Trails

 

	Temescal Canyon This 2.6-mile loop offers a variety of scenery and decent exercise, despite its relative brevity.
	Ocean View Trail – Canyon View Trail Loop This 3-mile loop demands more effort than the Zuma Canyon Trail and provides great ocean and canyon views.
	The Grotto This 3-mile out and back visits a remote grotto in the Santa Monica Mountains National Recreation Area.
	Westridge Trail to San Vicente Mountain This 7.4-mile hike travels a scenic ridge between a Brentwood neighborhood and a summit that was once used as a Nike Missile site.

 

More Info

 

Saddle Peak on nobodyhikesinla.com

The official NPS webpage for the Backbone Trail

 

Stunt High Trail begins with a gentle walk along Cold Creek, and then ascends through meadows and chaparral up the northern slope of Saddle Peak to offer great views of the Santa Monica Mountains. Stunt High Trail ends at a road 3 miles from the start, which is a rather anti-climactic high point. From there, pick up the Backbone Trail and hike to the top of Saddle Peak, the sixth tallest summit in the range, where wide views over Malibu and the Pacific can be enjoyed. This excellent excursion to Saddle Peak is 8.2 miles round trip with 1,700 feet of elevation gain.

From the trailhead, descend through an oak grove along the banks of Cold Creek, a year round water source. Turn left at the first junction, leaving the creek, and progress uphill through green fields with open views. The trail narrows to a single track as it crosses the UCLA-owned eco-classroom Stunt Ranch, a pristine preserve that UCLA is kind enough to let non-students enjoy. Continue straight through the next junction to remain on Stunt High Trail, passing a path leading to the right into Stunt Ranch.

A bench along Cold Creek

Stunt High Trail progresses southward, crossing a paved service road. After a short distance, the trail hits Stunt Road (for the first time). There is a parking area here for those wishing to join the hike a mile and a half from the start. Turn right and cross the road, heading uphill a few hundred feet. The start of the next leg of the trail is just past mile marker 1.94 and difficult to see if you are not looking carefully.

Switchbacks climb quickly through a forest of bays, giving way to more gradual trail up chaparral-covered slopes. The views across Cold Creek Canyon toward the 2,163-foot Calabasas Peak will inspire you to hike that peak next if you haven’t already.

Calabasas Peak

Three miles from the start, the trail again reaches Stunt Road and another parking area at the top of Stunt High Trail. You could turn around here, but there is something inherently dissatisfying about hiking to a road and back. Fortunately, there is the option to continue. Just a few hundred feet to the right, on the other side of Stunt Road, is an access point to the Backbone Trail. Take the Backbone Trail for 1.1 miles, climbing 800 feet to a much more satisfying pinnacle, the summit of Saddle Peak.

A short distance from Stunt Road, turn left at the junction (otherwise you will be hiking 3.2 miles down to Piuma Road). The northern slope of Saddle Peak offers even broader views of the Santa Monica Mountains. The Backbone Trail climbs past Manzanita trees and crosses a collection of large sandstone formations that beg to be climbed.

Sandstone beneath the summit

The trail continues to the east, bringing into view a radio tower-covered lower summit. Turn right at the next junction, leaving the Backbone Trail for a wide path that climbs to the 2,805-foot summit of Saddle Peak after one more turn to the left. From here, have a look down on the Malibu estates on the slopes below, and out at the Pacific Ocean.

Looking northeast from Saddle Peak

The directions to remember are:

1. Left at the first junction leaving the Cold Creek
2. Straight past the Stunt Ranch Trail
3. Straight across the paved service right
4. Right at Stunt Road to find the recommencement of the trail
5. Right at Stunt Road again at the top of Stunt High Trail to find the Backbone Trail
6. Left toward Saddle Peak
7. Right to leave the Backbone Trail for the summit
8. Left to reach the summit

Do the reverse on the return for an 8.2-mile round trip hike with great views of Malibu and Calabasas. Despite having 3 different pavement crossings, this trail immerses hikers into diverse greenery. No fee or permit is required, so get out and enjoy. For a shorter hike to the summit, and to see photos from the top of Saddle Peak that aren’t covered by clouds, check out the two-mile round trip hike up the Backbone Trail to Saddle Peak.

The parking lot at the base of Shunt High Trail is a popular one as it also services the Calabasas Peak Mountainway trailhead, delivering hikers to Calabasas Peak and Red Rock Canyon (both excellent hikes).

A few of the many Lupines blooming along the trail

To get to the trailhead: From the 101 freeway, exit Las Virgenes Road and head south toward Malibu. After 2.8 miles turn left (east) on Mulholland Highway. After 4 miles, turn right on Stunt Road and drive one mile. There is plentiful parking along the right side of the road next to the trailhead.

From PCH, take Malibu Canyon Road until it becomes Las Virgenes Road. Turn right on to Mulholland Highway and take that to Stunt Road as described above.

Another option for those coming from the west side is to take PCH north to Las Flores Road (across from Duke’s restaurant). Drive 3.4 miles up this narrow twisting canyon and turn right onto Rambla Pacifico Street. After 0.6 miles, make a sharp right onto Schueren Road and descend the backside of the mountain for 5 miles to arrive at the parking for Stunt High Trail from the other direction. This scenic route offers a high view on Malibu and the Pacific.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                               

These photos were taken in March of 2010. Click to enlarge.

 

Elevation Profile

 

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Calabasas Peak This 3.6-mile hike travels an easy-to-follow fire road, climbing 1000 feet to panoramic views of the Santa Monica Mountains and San Fernando Valley.
	Red Rock Canyon The trails in the beautifully sculpted Red Rock Canyon are 2.5 and 5.2 miles in length.
	Topanga Lookout This 2-mile visits the site of an old fire tower that still offers great views of the surrounding mountains.
	Backbone Trail to Saddle Peak This 2-mile hike approaches Saddle Peak from the east.
	Hondo Canyon This fairly well maintained section of the Backbone Trail crosses fields of grains and forests of Bays, climbing 1500 feet over 3.8 miles.
	Talepop Loop This 4.75-mile hike climbs 500 feet over a scenic mountain between Liberty Canyon and Las Virgenes Canyon on the north end of Malibu Creek State Park.
	Grassland Trail to Crags Road and Rock Pool This easy 3-mile hike enters Malibu Creek State Park on South Grassland Trail, then forms a loop around Crags Road to visit Rock Pool, a popular park retreat.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

Similar Trails

 

	La Jolla Canyon Loop This 11.75-mile hike explores Point Mugu State Park on the west end of the Santa Monica Mountains, offering extraordinary ocean views.
	Sandstone Peak This 6.25-mile loop summits the tallest peak in the Santa Monica Mountains.
	Parker Mesa Overlook This steep out-and-back hike rewards the effort with excellent views of the Pacific Ocean.
	Mount Lee This 6.4-mile hike crosses Griffith Park from Canyon Drive to the top of Mount Lee directly behind the landmark Hollywood Sign.
	Santa Anita Canyon Loop This 9.5-mile loop visits a two peaceful creeks, a 60 foot waterfall and plenty of beautiful wilderness.

 

More Info

 

Stunt High Trail review in Los Angeles Magezine

Stunt High Trail on (single)geekhiker.wordpress.com

Stunt High Trail on localhikes.com

A longer hike incorporating Stunt High Trail on socalhikes.com

 

This fairly well maintained section of the Backbone Trail crosses fields of grains and forests of bays, climbing 1500 feet over 3.8 miles. There is a road at both ends of the Hondo Trail, so it can be hiked as a one-way with a car shuttle or a 7.6-mile out and back without.

The bottom of the trail is located along Old Topanga Canyon Road 0.4 miles west of Topanga Canyon Blvd. Look for the Botts’ dots built into the road, which slow traffic through this area of ample roadside parking. Start down the single track leading from the southwest side of the road. There is sign posted which reads, “Backbone Trail.” Immediately, the trail crosses over a shallow creek where some rock hopping is required. On the other side, follow the trail to the right as it climbs up fields of green grasses. There is a good chance of seeing deer in this area, and an even better shot of an excellent view down on Topanga and the surroundings.

Hondo Canyon Trail

The trail remains easy to follow as it approaches Hondo Canyon, crossing a rocky perch with a nice view up and down the canyon. From there, the track climbs the east bank of the canyon, staying high above the small creek below. The trail switches through a dense forest made up largely of California bays (and a patch or two of poison oak). In the spring, flower seekers will find intermittent purple nightshade and tree poppies along the trail. The top of the ridge is never out of sight for long, but it takes an awful lot of switchbacks to get to.

The trail finally reaches Saddle Peak Road, where one one gets a view down the other side of the ridge at the ocean below. Cross the pavement and trot up the opposing ridge to gain a slightly better perspective down on the big blue.

Extending the hike: From the top of Hondo Canyon Trail, a section of the Backbone Trail labeled “Fossil Ridge Trail” continues west above the road for 0.6 miles, connecting to to Lois Ewen Overlook at the base of the trail Topanga Lookout (the Lookout is 0.9 miles from the junction). Just across the pavement, the Backbone Trail continues, reaching Saddle Peak after one mile. Both extensions are highly recommended, and add sweeping views to the secluded hike up Hondo Canyon.

Those who parked back on Old Topanga Canyon Road must now hike back down the Hondo Canyon Trail for a 7.6-mile hike (or a 10.6-mile hike with one of the extensions). There are several other great long hikes in the Santa Monica Mountains to try before setting out for Hondo Canyon, like Stunt High Trail to Saddle Peak, Parker Mesa Overlook, and Sandstone Peak. Dogs and bikes are not permitted, but no fee or permit is required, so get out and enjoy!

Looking inland over the Santa Monica Mountains

To get to the trailhead: From PCH, take Topanga Canyon Road inland for 4.3 miles. At the first major intersection, turn left onto Old Topanga Canyon Road. After 0.4 miles, park along either side of the road and locate the marked trailhead on the southwest side of the road.

Use the map below to create your own directions:

Photos

 

                                 

These photos were taken in February of 2010. Click to enlarge.

 

Elevation Profile

 

 

Nearby Trails

 

	Topanga Lookout This 2-mile visits the site of an old fire tower that still offers great views of the surrounding mountains.
	Backbone Trail to Saddle Peak This 2-mile hike approaches Saddle Peak from the east.
	Stunt High Trail to Saddle Peak This 8.2-mile hike combines Stunt High Trail and a section of the Backbone Trail to visit the 6th tallest summit in the Santa Monica Mountains.
	Red Rock Canyon The trails in the beautifully sculpted Red Rock Canyon are 2.5 and 5.2 miles in length.
	Calabasas Peak This 3.6-mile hike travels an easy-to-follow fire road, climbing 1000 feet to panoramic views of the Santa Monica Mountains and San Fernando Valley.
	Eagle Rock from Trippet Ranch This 4.5-mile loop takes Musch Trail and Eagle Springs Fire Road to visit an exceptional sandstone summit in Topanga State Park.
	Parker Mesa Overlook from Trippet Ranch This 6.7-mile roundtrip hike heads up to the overlook from the opposite direction, starting at Trippet Ranch, Topanga State Park’s main trailhead.
	More trails in the Santa Monica Mountains Explore other destinations in the range.

 

More Info

 

The NPS webpage for the Backbone Trail

Hondo Canyon on my-favorite-hikes.com

Hondo Canyon on localhikes.com

Note: The mileage listed on localhikes.com is incorrect